The following morning, we left Pahalgaon for Gulmarg, a hill station with snow-covered mountains. Our journey included a visit to the Martand Sun temple. The temple was located on a plateau and its ruins were visible. The temple surrounded by green hills is a scenic spot. It was a hot summer day and the open hills and the piercing sun rays prevented us from understanding the details.
The Martand Sun Temple is not only a UNESCO World Heritage site but also listed as a national monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. The intricate sculptures and carvings remain visible despite being destroyed by multiple earthquakes over the past 1200 years. The large flat stone steps lead to the main temple, which has a central courtyard with images of Lord Vishnu, Ganges, the Sun deity and others to complement the walls. The courtyard was in ruins and was surrounded by intricately designed pillars. During our visit, a frail woman stood near the temple with a couple of white rabbits, asking us to take a photograph with them. Despite feeling hot and tired, our guide led us to a great spot and we took fantastic photographs capturing the magnificence and culture of the place.
We were then led to a bat factory with scores of bats made out of willow trees. In the past, the finest cricket bats were imported from England. However, with time the willow trees were cultivated in Kashmir and the highest quality bats began to be produced there. The bat factory housed numerous bats at various stages of production. Some were left to sun dry for weeks while others were being prepared for polishing. Bats ready for sale were displayed in the showroom on the first floor. The owner, an elderly man explained the entire process of crafting bats from willow wood. We travelled a lot that day and stopped at an ordinary restaurant for lunch. It was a highway dining spot. The food was cold and it was unappetising. The group expressed their remorse about the food. We then travelled for an hour or more and began climbing up the hills to reach Gulmarg. The roads were intertwined and showcased the beautiful green valleys with pine trees, willow, Chinar and Cyprus. As we climbed higher the view grew breathtakingly beautiful.
Gulmarg, formerly known as Gaurimarg, was believed to be the abode of Goddess Parvati. However, during the rule of Yousuf Shah Chak between 1579 and 1586, it was renamed Gulmarg, the meadow of flowers. There are many things to enjoy in Gulmarg, such as its lush green backdrops, tranquil lakes, flower gardens, and breathtaking landscapes. As we reached the clearing on top of the mountains, we found it serene, with its muddy roads. A few paved roads ran to connect the sightseeing spots. Due to the small size of the hotels and the absence of elevators, we were divided into groups. We had to climb up the rocky stairs to reach our hotel. Although a wisp of cold wind told us it was late evening, the sunset was late. The hotel had friendly staff. We wanted to add some sightseeing trips; the tourist staff arranged a car. As we climbed down the hilly terrain surrounding the hotel, a young man came rushing to us. He said he was Saif, a cab driver and was willing to be our guide.
It was 5:30 pm, but strong sunrays fell on the hills, making it magical. We were driven to the Strawberry fields, we felt they would have fields of strawberries but we ended up where clear streams of water ran between the green plains surrounded by mountain-clad hills. Numerous sheep grazed on one of the plains, reminding one that these hills were a shepherd’s retreat. The young cab driver was friendly. He said, “I am a Physical Education teacher; I have completed my master’s in Physical Education.”
“Then why do you drive the car
He said, ‘The pay of a teacher is 20 to 25 thousand rupees which is never sufficient, I have two daughters and a large family to fend.’
We said, ‘Does driving a car and visitors in this small place fetch you money
He nodded, We knew it was true as we were paying a lot for these short tours
He said, ‘When it snows, people pay us 30000 for this sightseeing. It’s adventurous for me and fetching. I’m not afraid to take risks and adore learning new things.
Saif grew friendly quickly as he was reminded of his little kids looking at my grandniece. He left some time for us and let us explore the meadows. Though it was picturesque the tourists had dirtied the streams by throwing the empty plastic bottles and paper covers everywhere.
Saif took to the Maharani temple and many more beautiful places. We saw an isolated Maharaja Hari Singh’s palace on the top of a hill, it was a heritage sight. Even though Gulmarg is primarily a Muslim state, people of all faiths find peace here. As Saif drove us close to St Mary’s Church in the Meadows, it seemed isolated and well beyond its time.
‘Does anyone visit the church, are there any Christians here’, we asked.
In December, the church is a popular place. Snow covers this place, and many visitors attend the church’s Christmas celebration. There is a mixed population in the area, but everyone enjoys the holiday season.
We bid Saif goodbye at 8 pm after giving him a handsome tip though the trip wasn’t a long one, it was interesting to talk to know about the culture, the film shootings that occurred there and about the people.
The next morning, we were ready for our gondola trip. The trip involved waiting in a long line that curved several times and led us to the check-out counter. We were supposed to produce individual e-tickets in PDF format, however, the tickets were for the group. The Gondola could carry six people and we had to board quickly, similar to the Swiss-style gondolas. We travelled 2600 feet above the ground and got dropped off at Kongdoori. Most people chose to take phase II from Kongdoori to Apharwat, but we were allowed to climb the snow-covered hills on horseback. The glaciers were not as firm as in winter, but these places supported adventures like the zip lines. The trek included dense pine forests and grass-covered terrains against the backdrop of the snow-covered mountains. We enjoyed strolling through the meadows. We were yet to visit the quiet and undiscovered region of Gulmarg surrounded by the breathtaking Himalayan Peaks. Awe walks, and picnics seemed ideal in this verdant meadow of flowers.
We encountered a few individuals who sustained injuries while riding horses in these plains. It’s important to shift your body forward if the horse moves backwards and vice versa. It was time to leave Gulmarg. Our vehicle was ready at the hotel and the driver took us down the hills back to the highway restaurant for lunch. We were quite late but the restaurant owner had taken great care, and the food was delicious that day. As the sun faded, we drove back to Srinagar as we were to visit another interesting hill station the next day.
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