The Diwali festivities are special due to the rituals, beautiful decorations, delicious food, and family bonding. These celebrations provide a welcome break for everyone, as offices, colleges, schools, and workplaces shut down during this time. The festival is also marked by the bursting of firecrackers, which can create a lot of noise. This year, on the day of Lakshmi Pooja, the incessant sounds from the firecrackers were particularly challenging. While the rituals emphasise that it’s just about light, the celebrations have become extravagant to make a significant impact on social media. The Diyas have been replaced by flashy lights, but the children bring joy as they build tiny forts of Emperor Shivaji out of mud.
With a few days off, we felt the need to escape into nature. We were looking forward to visiting the Kaas plateau in Satara district, Maharashtra. The plateau has acres of special flowers that bloom just after the monsoons begin. It continues till the end of September or the first week of October. We were late, but the monsoons had been extended this year. With a hope to see at least a few of the flowers, we set off to the Kaas plateau. We crossed the Satara city, which is known as Saat Tara, or Seven Stars, due to the seven hill forts in the adjoining areas of the city. The city’s laid-back appeal makes it a pensioners’ paradise, while its forts make it a soldier’s paradise.
Kaas Pathar is a plateau and a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. There are two ways to reach Kaas: a direct route from Satara and another from Tapola via the link road connecting Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani to Kas Pathar. The Kaas Plateau is also close to the Koyana Sanctuary, a large reserved forest area.
We began our journey to Kaas on the Satara route, via the city, and it was fascinating to explore the city and its cultural sites that welcomed us. We followed narrow lanes leading uphill, heading towards the Kaas Plateau and the Vasota Fort. As we ascended the ghat road, it became picturesque. The drive was 22 km uphill, and soon, we reached wider roads bordered by acres of beautiful flowers. The area was lined with a few restaurants, providing rest for tired travellers.
After parking our car, we walked to the counter to buy tickets for entry to the flower beds. These flower beds thrived naturally, showcasing a variety of blooms. The path was barricaded and extended all the way to Kaas Lake, which is adorned with pink flowers during the monsoon season. As we made our way toward the lake, a sudden heavy downpour drenched us within seconds, but our excitement to see the lake drove us onward. Although we caught sight of the stunning lake, the surrounding area was devoid of flowers at that moment.
We had booked our night stay at Nisarg Resorts in Tapola. We had never heard of this place before, but it was the most suitable option available on such short notice. We were unaware of the route that we needed to take to reach our destination, thinking it was close to Kaas. After checking later, we discovered that the journey was supposed to take about two hours. Since it was already almost five in the evening, we decided to drive quickly through the crowded roads, which were filled with dangerous potholes. The road led us to a nearby lake, which offered water sports and boating activities. The area was overwhelmingly crowded with cars parked along the edges of the road, making it difficult for us to navigate through. Further ahead, the bylanes were extremely narrow and eroded, forcing us to drive slowly, which delayed our progress. We needed to reach Bamnoli, near Mahabaleshwar, which was 17 kilometres away from Kaas, to catch the ferry boat to Tapola.
After driving for 7 kilometres along the winding ghat roads, we arrived at a serene and beautiful landscape. The backwaters of Koyna and the tributaries of Shivsagar Lake stretched wide across the valley, with the lake nestled between the Western Ghats. The sky was breathtaking, as sunlight filtered through the clouds. We paused to appreciate the richness of nature that surrounded us. There wasn’t a single soul around. As we walked a little further, we noticed a young man standing on the pavement wall that lined the road, preventing vehicles from slipping into the valley. He and his father cupped their hands like binoculars around their eyes to take in the panoramic view. We stood in our wet clothes, completely spellbound for a long time; nothing else seemed to matter. The sky displayed a multitude of hues, while the valley and mountains reached out to us. We were unaware of how long we had been there, untouched by the passage of time or the setting sun.
As we continued our drive, we enjoyed the calm and peaceful surroundings. The road was lined with dense forests, and below us lay a beautiful stretch of water in the valley. Human settlements were sparse until we reached Bamnoli.
At the crossroads, we noticed a signboard indicating various bus stops like Kelghar, Solshi, Ahir, Vengale, the last of which was Tapola, listed as 29 kilometres away. We stopped to speak with some local men, but the motorboat and ferry stand was deserted since it was past 6 PM. We asked one of the men for directions, and he replied, “You have no choice but to drive via the road; it will take you approximately 1.5 hours.”
We wanted to find out how a car could be ferried across and whether it would reach its destination sooner. The man wasn’t willing to show us the dockyard, and all we could see was the beautiful lake.
We began driving down the winding ghat roads that spiralled around the massive mountainous terrain. It felt like several hours had passed as darkness started to fall. Although it was only 6 PM, the thick forests, devoid of any human settlement, offered nothing but the rickety road ahead. We were the only ones on the road during our journey.
After a long drive, we finally encountered a temple where people had gathered. We encountered a few human settlements with electricity, but there were no streetlights. We tried to use Google Maps for navigation, but it wasn’t working since the only network available was Jio, and none of us had that service. By chance, we took a wrong turn and ended up on a muddy road in a village. The villagers looked at us anxiously but kindly guided us back to the main road.
We continued on our route until quarter to eight when we finally reached Tapola. A side road led us to a beach-like setting with a sign pointing to the hotel. A sense of relief washed over us as we realised we had finally arrived. We then had to walk up a series of stairs to reach the reception to check in and then to our accommodation. The hotel had rooms on three floors; the lowest ones were cottage-style, while the top floors housed suites. In between, there was a restaurant and a swimming pool with a deck where a family was celebrating a birthday. The hotel served delicious, authentic food and had a unique feature of splashing water from the roof for beautiful photography opportunities.
That night, we settled our bills, eager to travel early the next morning. The following morning was the best we had experienced after a night of refreshing showers. We noticed that we were close to the lake, and the wind was blowing gently, making the place feel heavenly. I rushed down to get a closer look at the lake and the majestic mountains. However, when I turned around, I found myself surrounded by a pack of dogs watching my hands intently. I quickly ran back upstairs.
We spotted a ferry a little way from the hotel. It could have taken us to Bamnoli, from where we could have reached Kaas, but we had opted for a different route. As we continued on our journey, we found ourselves surrounded by picturesque landscapes filled with a variety of blooming flowers. These beautiful sights weren’t visible at Kaas, as there were very few human settlements in this area. We could hear the birds chirping, the wind rustling, and the waves crashing against the shore. In the distance, the sound of temple bells added a calming ambience
We reached a small restaurant situated on the edge of a precipice to enjoy our first cup of ginger tea. There, we met fellow travellers like ourselves. After finishing our tea, we made our way to the market square of Mahabaleshwar. We navigated through the many resorts, including Mala and Mapro, as we headed toward Panchgani and eventually reached Wai. This route was different but quicker, featuring wide roads. We drove past Satara and Shirole before arriving in Pune.
Our short trip was filled with twists and surprises, and now we are familiar with all the routes and landmarks along the Bamnoli-Tapola and Mahabaleshwar-Satara roads. Tapola has a dreamlike charm, with its tranquil waterfalls and blooming wildflowers all around; it is a picturesque hamlet that serves as a quaint getaway for enjoying hot tea and snacks while soaking in the serenity.
As a final tip, it’s always better to book hotels along the highway, such as the Effotel or Fern, where you can easily drive back. While resorts are calmer and more serene, they aren’t always easily accessible.
“Tapola offers an unforgettable experience, whether you’re seeking an adventure, relaxation, or a cultural journey.”
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